southern twist
•
on Tradition
among By Barrie Cohen
Photography by Allison Potter the wrapped gifts, the fresh pine of the
Christmas tree, ropes of lights and garland,
the traditional holiday feast stands as the star
of the season.
Inspiration for our new twist on a traditional holiday dinner stems from Chef
Eric Gephart’s Southern roots and love for local, fresh ingredients.
With this innovative, gourmet menu, we challenge home cooks to lose the
ham and go for the goose. Gephart’s affection for this fine-feathered fowl places
the bird as the centerpiece of the meal.
“The majesty of a bird on the table is underestimated. For some families, it is
the only thing that can get them to sit together and have a meal, even if just once
or twice a year,” he says.
A fatty and succulent bird, a citrus-stuffed goose shines as the masterpiece
of the feast. Normally fattier than turkey, goose is best prepared by soaking the
bird in boiling water to seal the pores and to preserve its rich flavor. Citrus fruit
such as grapefruit, lemons and limes are often stuffed into the goose to increase
the flavor. A seven- to nine-pound goose generally cooks the easiest. Ordered
directly from the farm or easily attainable at most supermarkets, Gephart’s
appetite for the goose goes beyond the dinner table. Goose is great for leftovers,
especially for sandwiches, he says.
Pairing the goose with a wide variety of down-home Southern eats, this
menu’s twist on tradition focuses on the freshness of locally grown food
including Stump Sound oysters served with corn chow chow (similar to relish)
and bacon.
“Stump Sound oysters were chosen for their brininess or saltiness. Bacon
provides the textural contrast, a little crunch that we look for with the soft, meaty
oyster, and the corn chow chow provides a bit of sweetness as well as acid to
excite the pallet for the next bite,” Gephart says.
To complement the Stump Sound oyster, Gephart chose several other dishes
to accompany the warm flavor of the goose. The menu includes chicken consommé,
grilled venison with a wilted cabbage salad, sweet potato biscuits with
maple butter, parsnip whipped potatoes, cranberry horseradish relish, root roast
and a country fair favorite, dirt cake.
Dirt cake, a Southern treat and a childhood favorite for Gephart, adds the
sweetness of chocolate to the meal.
“Dirt cake is usually plated in a flower pot and served with a garden trowel.
This dessert just makes a statement that says, ‘I grew up in the South and I am
here for the party.’ The richness of this culinary delight is enough to put anyone
over the edge and proves to be impossible to turn down seconds,” Gephart says.
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WBM december 2012