BBQ
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by region when he traveled all
over the state for his in-depth
investigation of Southern
barbecue, “The Best Tar
Heel Barbecue: Manteo to
Murphy,” published in 2002.
Early observes that eastern
North Carolina typically
yields slow-cooked pigs
accented by a tempered
vinegar-based sauce. Further
inland, preferences run to
a thicker, tomato-accented
sauce.
He also found the tradition
of cooking the whole pig is
becoming a rare practice for
backyard cooks.
“Now, most people are just
too busy to put in the time it
takes to prep and cook the pig
that way; it is a ton of work,”
Early says.
The society is doing its part
to keep it alive by teaching
whole-hog cooking during the
three annual cooking school
sessions it conducts across the
state.
“Cooking that pig is the
‘wow factor’ of the schools,”
Early says. “It’s not like cook-ing
a chicken, after all.”
Ramsey can attest to that
fact, given that his days at a
pig-cooking competition can
be grueling. The cooking por-tion
runs 12 hours, and then
there’s the judging and award
ceremony before he can pack
up his smoker and tent and
head home.
Despite the work, and
sometimes the risk in com-ing
up short with the judges,
Ramsey maintains that cook-ing
for others, whether in
someone’s backyard or on
festival grounds, is worth the
effort.
“It’s something I love
doing, it doesn’t really matter
where or why,” he says.
Pulled pork is traditionally served in a sandwich with a vinegar-based sauce and sides of coleslaw,
hushpuppies and sweet tea. The coleslaw often goes inside the sandwich.