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Happy cows produce better milk, and better
milk makes better cheese. That simple belief is
what prompted Carolina natives Flow Hawley
and Portia McKnight to purchase 37 acres of land
just south of Dairyland Road in Orange County
to establish Chapel Hill Creamery. They cleared
the land, converted 28 acres to pasture with a mix
of grasses, and purchased nine Jersey cows — a
small breed prized for high butterfat content and
rich, creamy milk.
Their care and dedication has always been the
driving force behind the creamery’s ethos.
“We committed to healthy, happy cows from
the beginning,” McKnight says. “We are certified
by Animal Welfare Approved, which is the most
stringent of the farm animal welfare certifica-tion
programs. My favorite cow — don’t tell the
others — is Andrea. She is named after Andrea
Reusing of Lantern Restaurant and The Durham.
She was born in March of 2007, daughter of
Audrey, granddaughter of Allison, and great
granddaughter of Miss Ada, our original cow.
Andrea has been affectionate and playful since she
was a calf. She’s especially photogenic, and loves
to have her picture taken.”
The herd has grown to 30 grass-fed cows
that have rewarded them greatly. Chapel Hill
Creamery’s selection of seven cheeses is a testament
to that.
“We have a core list of four cheeses: Carolina
Moon, a Camembert-style cheese; Calvander,
inspired by Asiago; Hickory Grove, a silky, melt-able
monastery style cheese; and fresh mozzarella,
which is a summertime feature,” McKnight says.
Calvander — named after a crossroads where
a 19th-century schoolhouse sits — has gone on
to win three Best in Show prizes at the North
Carolina State Fair, as well as a World Jersey
Cheese Award and a North American Jersey
Cheese Award.
“Cheese is an incredibly fascinating food
because milk is almost 100 percent of the com-position,
but there are so many different cheeses
that can be made from that one ingredient,”
McKnight says. “As we explored the possibil-ity
of cheesemaking, we found it compelling to
start from the ground up, from the sun and soil,
building our herd health and creating outstand-ing
milk quality to ultimately make great cheese.”
Buckeye Drive
off Middle Sound Loop
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Sara Humphrey • Gardner Noble
910-799-8755
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