Sweet Summer Bliss

For those fortunate enough to have visited Hawaii, memories of the journey might be tied to the sweet, tantalizing aroma of fresh pineapple wafting through the fields at Dole Plantation. The tourist attraction is smack dab between Honolulu and the surf meccas of the North Shore on the island of Oahu. With fields of pineapple stretching as far as the eye can see and lush, green mountains as a backdrop, it’s worth visiting for lunch, a stroll through the garden maze, and a tour of the botanical gardens. Fresher really is better, and a visit is not complete without a sample of the pineapple float, the chocolate-covered, coconut-sprinkled pineapples, or the Kalua BBQ sandwich, which has island-style smoked pulled pork covered with pineapple on a sweet roll.

Pineapples are as beautiful as they are tasty. The origin of the name stems from their pinecone-like appearance. If pinecones were as delicious and versatile as pineapple, hunger could be a thing of the past here in the South. 

There are several similarities between the Islands and the Southeast — fresh fish, a penchant for BBQ, and an ocean-oriented culture being chief among them. And what could be a better pairing for blackened mahi or grouper than grilled pineapple?

Sheri Castle, food writer, professional cook and host of The Key Ingredient on PBS, has some mouth-watering ideas.

“A grilled pineapple can be a sweet counterpoint to something savory, such as with a grilled pineapple salsa, a garnish for a black bean soup, or inside a baked sweet potato,” Castle says. “For dessert, I like to pair it with ice cream and make it the bottom of a sundae. And you can go tropical by using pineapple sorbet or coconut sorbet. I love coconut sorbet with pineapple and some fresh lime.”

For a more traditional approach, her advice is to pair grilled pineapple with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce and crunchy nuts.

“Because the pineapple is always tender even before you apply heat, and it doesn’t go soggy, it will give you a textural element in that otherwise very creamy and soft sundae,” she says.

Pineapple is one of the easiest fruits to grill.

“A minute or two on each side is enough because it’s so high in sugar,” Castle says. “It really likes those last smoldering embers, so it’s the perfect end for a cookout. You can be eating while the embers die down and then hit that pineapple when it’s time for dessert without having to fire up the grill again.”

Slicing for direct placement on the grill or dicing to place on a grill pan is enough, but Castle has an idea that ups the flavor profile significantly.

“It’s really easy because you don’t have to wrap it in foil or use a grill grate. One thing you can do is to dip it in melted butter and sugar. That way you can get a true caramelization crunch on the outside,” she says.

This process is something that Castle refers to as gilding the lily, adding unnecessary ornamentation to something that is already beautiful.

“It implies that it’s better, but on the edge of being way too much,” she said. “The butter isn’t to help the pineapple, it’s to help the sugar adhere. It turns crispy, like little bits of caramel.”

Recipe from Cape Fear Seafood Company

Surf and Turf with Grilled Pineapple and Chimichurri

A Surf and Turf Chimichurri recipe provided by Bill Scott, managing partner of Cape Fear Seafood Company, incorporates grilled pineapple. It includes grilled shrimp and either filet or ribeye served with chimichurri, which Scott describes as a simple pesto-style sauce.

Scott recommends pre-making the sauce, as it is best if it sits for a few hours after prepping.

Chimichurri Sauce

• 1 bunch cilantro
• 1 bunch parsley
• 2 or 3 garlic cloves peeled and minced
• 1 shallot bulb minced (optional)
• 1 tsp black pepper
• 1 tsp salt (more or less to taste)
• 1/2 tsp or more crushed red chili flake (optional but a little heat is nice with the sweet)
• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Loosely chop the parsley and cilantro and place in a mixing bowl. Add the other ingredients, except the olive oil, and stir to blend them together. Then whisk in the olive oil while stirring, and refrigerate until it’s time to serve.

“This pairs well with both steak and seafood, so it’s the perfect accompaniment,” Scott says.

Scott recommends grilling pineapple planks half an inch thick and setting them aside until the steak and shrimp are ready.

“You want them to be slightly thick or they will wilt when grilling,” advises Scott.

The grill should be covered with a cooking spray before it’s hot. After the grill is heated, add the planks and rotate a half turn to get a char pattern.

“There is no need to cook both sides, just get good char marks for flavor,” Scott says.

Use medium to large peeled and deveined shrimp and skewer separately from the steak, since the shrimp will cook faster. Cut the beef into approximately one-inch chunks and either skewer or place directly on the grill. The steak should be seasoned with blackening spice, but salt and pepper will work just as well.

“This is a quick recipe to build but it will taste like you spent some time on it,” adds Scott, whose restaurant donates $1 to the Trawick Pediatric Cardiology Research Fund at Duke University every time the dish is sold.