savor — guide to food & dining on the azalea coast 77 says Grimm, now a chef at Pembroke’s in Wilmington. Oren Knicely, of Shallotte, N.C., has won the December Brunswick County Chamber of Commerce Brunswick stew cook-off two times for sure. Maybe more. “I believe it’s three. I can’t remember,” he says. Knicely emphasizes that what you want depends on whom you’re cooking for. He also competes in the Brunswick, Georgia, Brunswick stew cook-off, where he alters his secret recipe to suit Georgian tastes. In Georgia, Knicely says, “They use pulled pork, pulled chicken, and it’s real thick, I mean tremendously thick. Basically, it’s got a vinegar flavor.” For North Carolinians, Knicely uses smoked pork, brisket and chicken breast in a stew of onions, tomatoes, okra, potatoes, carrots, lima beans and creamed corn. “It’s a little spicy,” Knicely says. “When you’re eating it, it’s got just a little bit of sweet then the heat kicks in.” Knicely thinks all Brunswick stew cooks should strive for one thing: “The paddle you’re stirring with should stand up in the finished stew without a problem — freestand.” Wilmington chef James Doss grew up in Goldsboro, recognized by many as North Carolina’s Eastern Carolina-style pulled pork barbecue capi-tal. As a result, Doss has eaten his share of Brunswick stew as a side dish to pulled pork, possibly served as such because Brunswick stew is a way to use excess pork and fried chicken. Despite his Brunswick stew pedigree, when Doss talks ideas for his Wilmington Brunswick stew is traditionally served as a side dish to fried chicken or pulled barbequed pork. Rx and Pembroke’s restaurants, he envi-sions neither soupy nor thick — and defi-nitely not squirrel. “Maybe a deconstructed thing,” Doss says, “where you have the butter beans and corn with a pork chop, and the Brunswick stew flavors in the background; or maybe with grilled chicken or a grilled pork chop or braised and pressed pork belly, stewed butter beans and fresh heirloom tomato sauce.” Doss considers a cornbread bowl filled with Brunswick stew. Grimm chimes in with roasted red potato mash surrounded by Brunswick stew. “It’s kind of like fried chicken,” Doss says of Brunswick stew. “Even if it’s bad fried chicken, it’s still good.” www.wrightsvillebeachmagazine.com WBM
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